Page last changed March 1, 2003

Folding and unfolding issues

• Spotlight on the seatpost and saddle - Adjusting the seat post after unfolding
• Spotlight on the chain - Chain falling off while riding over bumps or while unfolding
• Spotlight on the seatpost and saddle - Getting it up or down
• Spotlight on pedals - The Brompton folding pedal folding too far
• Folding when you don't want it: Carrying or rolling issues - Stop your rear end from sagging

Handlebars suddenly flipping open while folded

• Anthony Cartmell:
  I have has several embarrassing moments when the handlebars decide to unfold, usually hitting someone as I'm clambering aboard a train. I have had some success with strengthening the frame clip by threading an old spoke through its holes and twisting the ends together. The spoke wire makes a round-ish O shape which has plenty of spring in it. I reckon a re-design of the clip would be a good idea, as it relies on a very narrow part of the plastic which wears quickly.
• Mark James:
  If you use bar ends (Spotlight on handlebars - Bar ends) that solves the folding problem
• Dave Holladay, Oct 1997:
  There is also a neat little transporting the bike trick which avoids the flapping 'bars problem, I found out when folding the black 1(2 with foot & finger) speed machine. A pannier shock cord loop fitted under the clip for the gear changer, with the Custom Folder swing under stop strap, will neatly link together as a positive closure.
• David Hansen, Jan 1998:
  If you look at where the handlebars clip into the folded bike you will see a U shaped bit of plastic on the bike, and a round shaped bit of plastic on the handlebar stem. The round bit of plastic should strike both sides of the U shaped bit at the same time while being folded. If they do not then this may be the cause of the problem. Rotate the U shaped bit until the round bit strikes squarely (you will hopefully need to unfasten it to do so).
  Alternatively the U shaped bit of plastic may have been weakened and so allowing the round bit to slip out. A bent piece of springy wire inserted into the holes in the U shaped bit will hold the two halves of the U together and so help prevent unclipping.
• Nico J. de Boer, Feb 2000:
  Even better: take about 3" of the threaded end of an old (or new) spoke, and bend it into the abovementioned "flat-bottomed U shape":
  The width of the "legs" should be a little (1mm, 1/32") less than the distance of the holes in the fitting. The length of the legs equals the height of the fitting. Insert it from below, and secure it by screwing on the spoke screw (the T in my figure). In this way, no excess sharp ends stick out from the fitting. Also you can easily bend it a bit narrower. (I've got the idea comes from the Brompton specialist at Roelofs Bike Shop in Arnhem, The Netherlands.)
• Custfold, Jan 1998:
  The clip usually weakens and breaks after use over many years or in cold weather. One option is to copy the Cresswell and fit a plastic pipe clip (15mm) - trimmed slightly and screwed onto the steerer stem, with the old capscrew in the old hole.
  To further secure the bars it would appear that the fitting of a pannier shock cord under the gear changer clip, and either hooking it into the spokes of the front wheel, or as I discovered - combining this with the anti fold under strap, the clip can hook into the strap and hold the whole bike as a unit - when the bent bit of the front mudguard stay which can gradually un-bend (see Jane Thomas's note) ceases to clip over. I've made a separate clip which stays on the axle to do this on all my bikes.
• Custfold, Mar 1998:
  The performance of the front clip which retains the bars will deteriorate, as it depends on a very thin section of plastic to give it a 'spring' around the bung which seats into it (Design students of synectics bent might find analogy of a cruder natural occurrence in interlocking components).
  From early days Brompton users have developed options to combat this
  1. using heavy wire - fashion a supporting spring clip which fits into the existing holes - the old style toilet roll holders (back of stall door/Mk 1 BR coaches etc) are exactly the right gauge wire.
  2. make/buy the Grigsby special clip - Avon Valley Cyclery - see A2B
  3. fit the anti fold-under strap plus a shock cord under the gear changer and clip them together when the bike is folded, remove the 2 plastic parts and accessories to balance weight increase and reduction. (both Custom Folder bits)
  4. follow style of Cresswell Micro, and remove plastic parts, before fitting a 15mm pipe clip (trimmed slightly) to engage with the cap screw in the fork crown.
  The deterioration of the clip is advanced if the plastic female part on the forks is loosened or knocked such that the line is not square with the male part on the steerer (very common), or the male part is knocked round on its thread, or fiddled with (it adjusts in & out on the thread)
  BTW the Brompton does make a nice seat with a back rest if the handlebars are folded down and the frame propped (my bikes have bars which touch the ground - and stubbies should have same effect) one can then sit along the main frame and lean back against the seatpost, with room for a second person in extremis on the frame and possibly someone small on the rear T carrier ......
• Erwin de Vries, May 2000:
  Alternatively, use a plastic tie-rap, which you put through the holes in the handlebar catch. You can tighten it click by click until it holds the nipple just right, therefore easier to adjust than using a spoke. Added bonus: put a rubber O-ring between the frame and the handlebar catch, and do not overtighten the allen bolt. This makes it possible for the catch to align itself to a certain degree. Otherwise, slightly misaligned catches sometimes break in two, I am told by experienced Bromptoneers.
  • Nico J. de Boer, May 2000:
    However, tie-wraps tend to break after a year (daily folding/unfolding), while a bit of spoke might hold out longer (currently being tested).

Frequent Folding fosters Frame Flange Failure?

• Roland Elsenberg, Feb 1999:
  Mine had at least four folds and unfolds each day for four years. On some days many, many more. Hinges, threads, bolts and clamps still work well, although I have read advice to change the clamps. The only wear due to the process of folding so far is in the clamp and plastic part locking the seatpost.
• Custfold, Feb 1999:
  The hinge component that fails first is the pivot pin (an interference fit roll pin) - with my frequent frame rebuilding I note that both my steerer hing pins (7 and 1 speed bikes) keep coming out and have to be whacked in with a heavy hard object when the sloppy handlebar becomes too frightening to ride.
  I did use a 6mm bolt once.
• Phil Gough, Feb 1999:
  I don't think it's something to worry about. My T5 has had 10 years of daily folding (250 working days a year so between seven and eight thousand folding operations. The wire clip on the front mudguard stay that locks onto the rear chainstay is very tired now, and I've got through 3 of those plastic handlebar locking clips. That is a part that could do with beefing up.

Is there a preferred gear to select before folding?

• David Hansen, Mar 1999:
  Optimal to avoid stretching the gear cable and so causing adjustment problems, top.
• Mike Hessey, May 2000:
  If you have one of the old 5-speed models with twin cable, then the left hand lever should be in the upper position to reduce cable tension.
• Jonathan Brickley, May 2000:
  I find it's best to be in second for speed of folding as the pedals whizz round to the correct position without dragging the chain tensioner device with it,and pulling off the chain>Mine's a 5 speed with 300 miles on the clock, maybe it will loosen up in time

Coping with passers-by: "how much does it cost?"

• Stephen W. Butler, Jul 2000:
  I have heard that Rockefeller, annoyed by frequent questions as to how much his yacht cost, would reply "If you have to ask, you can't afford it".
• Ka Lun Tam, Jul 2000:
  I have definitely been asked that question on numerous occasions. Obviously, if it's someone I know, I will be honest with them. If it's someone in a bike shop, I might tell them outright too.
  If it's a total stranger on the street, however, what I normally say is that they can buy a folding bike for anything from $200 to $2000 or more, depending on what features they want, how comfortable, etc. I then tell them I spent a little more on mine because I had it customized to match my specific measurements requirements. Ultimately, however, I never actually say how much my specific Brompton cost.
  My answer, I feel, tells them how much a generic folder could cost and might even get them interested in getting an inexpensive folder whereas the real cost of a Brompton could scare people away from the folding experience. By telling them that this bike is made to my specs, I'm hoping to make it appear that its value is a lot lower to anyone else, because it was really designed specifically for me.
  I don't know if any of this works, but I haven't had my B ripped off me yet! :)
• John R. Bolt, Jul 2000:
  I used to be more polite that I am now, and say "well, I can tell you they don't give them away." Nowadays, though, unless the questioner looks like someone who might tear me limb from limb, I just tell them flat out that that is an impolite question and it is none of their business. If I want to save my skin, I will say "a few hundred dollars" and let it go at that.

The Brompton Folding Bicycle FAQ